As wide-ranging as its title suggests, this book offers a broad sweep of human history – from prehistory to current times – refracted through the prism of food. Standage begins by showing how early hunter-gatherer communities, where food was shared in an egalitarian way, change with the advent of farming into unequal societies, marked by social difference. The development of agriculture leads to settled societies, which in turn become industrialized. Having set out the fundamental role that food has played in human history in place, Standage then explores different aspects of food in relation to human society.

This exploration covers some well-trodden ground, such as the part that spices played in triggering European exploration and colonisation. Standage, however, also demonstrates how Europe was competing with the Muslim world for valuable trade routes. With the background news of Swine Flu spreading around the world, his description of how the Black Death arrived in Europe partly because of the spice trade makes for uncomfortable reading. Standage’s historical journey ranges from a look at how the potato fuelled the Industrial Revolution to an examination of Napoleon’s organisational skill in providing food for the French Army. A particular highlight for me was Standage’s fascinating account of the discovery of ammonia synthesis in 1909, as a result of which ammonium sulphate fertilizer could be processed. This discovery, as Standage demonstrates, was to revolutionize farming and food production.

The scale of the book and the pace at which ground is covered means that there are times as a reader when you feel as if you’re been presented with a conclusion without having seen enough evidence. Sometimes, too, the sheer sweep of the book means that potentially fascinating subjects are missing. In the chapter on food as a weapon, for example, Standage looks at the dreadful famines under the dictatorships of Stalin’s Russia and Mao’s China. It would have been interesting here to have also looked at Mahatma Gandhi’s use of food as a political weapon, both in his highly potent Salt March and in Gandhi’s own use of fasting – doing without food – as a means of political protest. In fact, it’s a tribute to this book that it gets you thinking about food in a deeper way rather than simply wondering what to eat for dinner.

Don’t come to this book expecting a light, delicious read; this is far more substantial fare which takes some digesting. As Standage himself admits in his Acknowledgments, this is not a book about the joy of food. An Edible History of Humanity looks at food not as a source of pleasure but as a source of status, power and a means of control. Standage eschews the personal voice with which a writer like Michael Pollan brings serious issues to life, offering a way to connect to subjects. Consequently, especially in the opening chapters, the book can sometimes feel rather dry. On the plus side, however, Standage is an admirably clear writer, offering an authoritative guide to the events he unfolds. It’s great to come across such an ambitious idea for a book and to find both the writing and the content delivering so well. Real food for thought.

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